Other People's Upgrades To Their Catalina 22 Sailboats
Hosted by Skip "Slow Flight" Meisch

When I first though about this addition, I was concerned about going a little over the top on a 22 foot boat, but the cost was "resonable" and I could think of a number of benefits.

1. I could single hand the boat easier.
2. I could head the boat into the wind under power and keep the heading while setting the main.
3. I could set the heading, leave the tiller and go forward to adjust the sails or equipment without moving off course.
4. On long trips I could take a break from the tiller.

I have used the Auto-Pilot on a number of occasions and it is better than I could have dreamed. I have been sailing for almost 40 years now and the auto-pilot holds a better course than I could. It has not been tested in "sporty" conditions yet, but in light to moderate winds it has been great. In addition, it does not use much battery power even after 4 hours of continuous use.

First I needed to get power to the unit, install a "cup" on the coaming deck and a "pin" in the tiller.

The power was supplied by the addition of a 3-switch fused panel on the starboard side of the "kick-panel" just below the compainion way opening. By placing it on the port side of the panel it is essentially out of the weather. (see Additional Switch Board)

Then I mounted the pin in the tiller. The pin needs to have 3/4" exposed. I drilled the appropriate diameter and depth of hole. I also roughened the imbeded portion of the pin so the epoxy had something to bite on to rather than smooth stainless steel. I was sure to coat the entire hole with a thin layer of epoxy, and a layer of epoxy on the pin. I installed and did not get the right amount of "squish" I wanted. So I removed the pin and added a little more epoxy intil I got a nice rim of epoxy at the top of the pin/tiller intersection. Epoxy will yellow fairly quickly, but I did want to seal the hole from water infiltration. (see Auto-Pilot Tiller Connection)

Next I installed the "cup" for the other end of the Auto-Pilot. This is a brass cup with a ridge at the top. Drilled the appropriate hole in the top of the coaming, the appropriate length from the tiller. I also installed the cup by coating the hole with epoxy, the cup with epoxy (roughened the outside of the cup) and installed with a little epoxy squish.

I should mention here that different boats will have a different distance from the centered tiller to the location of the motor housing pin. This can be accounted for by installing different adapters on the drive arm (my solution- You may be able to see the two extensions on the drive arm) or installing a cantilever for the pin of the motor housing.

Finially, I installed an electrical, 2-pin socket on the inside coaming wall and the plug on the motor housing wire.

The completed set-up is pictured. (see Auto-Pilot Overview)

My auto-pilot is is Simrad ST-10. It is simple to use. It has lots of power to turn the tiller, I think the spec is about 148 lbs. It uses an internal flux-gate compass to keep your course. My course according to my compass or my GPS did not fluctuate more than 3 degrees +/-. Even going through your typical wake of a 45 foot yacht that passes 20 yards away at full throttle. I'll be interested to test it in a blow.

Additional Switch Board

Auto Pilot Deck Electrical Connection

Auto Pilot Overview

Auto Pilot Tiller Connections

Back to Scott's Main Page
Back to Skip's Main Page